2017 Grosset "Polish Hill" Riesling

Grosset Wines

Wines of this reputation can often be reviewed with a mix of expectation and a hint of the "tall poppies".  Considering the early hype behind the 2017 Vintage in the Clare, it's also easy to forget this particular wine is usually more shy than more youthfully exuberant examples.

Fresh in the glass, this shows more colour than recent Polish Hills. 
Aromatics are floral and more complex than hallmark "essence of lime" characters, also expected of this marque on release.  This is surprising, and pleasantly so.  Before sipping, it feels as if this wine spent time developing flavours in a vineyard without stress or pressure.

The theme continues through to the palate - weighted yet balanced - intense ripe limes with the faintest hint of wild honey - dipping its lid to Germany.  There's the unmistakable, laser-levelled drive, though it's boasting a wider beam than I recall.

Far more approachable than the standard issue Polish Hill, which leads me to believe it's less likely to require several years to show its best.

I applaud Jeffrey Grosset, as I always have - a masterful winemaker across numerous varieties and regions.  The 2017 Polish Hill Riesling shows a flexibility; a preparedness to adapt to the fruit before him; a willingness to stray from what's expected to make the best wine - a different take on a recognised benchmark.

94 points
Drinking window - 2017 - 2030 (not one to be kept as long as the 2012)
Price - $52 
Closure - ScrewcapAlcohol - 12.7%

 

 


Category: Clare Valley SA

Type: Riesling


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